All that Glistens is not GoldThe first thing I want to say about this is that a decision to visit the mines should not be taken lightly. Before you decide to go a few things really need to be considered.
Firstly, why are you going? Are you going because you have a particular interest in the mining industry? Is it because it's another one of those things that travellers do when travelling through Bolivia? Do you have a slightly morbid fascination with seeing the brutal and unrelentingly harsh working conditions of silver miners in a developing country? I'm not saying that any of these reasons is more or less valid than another. Whatever your reason at least you are showing an interest, all I'm saying is this is not your average traveller's excursion/day trip and you should have given a little thought as to why you've decided to go before you do so! Secondly, what is actually involved in a trip down the mines? This isn't a trip to a museum or a walk around a sanitary reconstruction of a mine, you are going into a working silver mine, deep underground at altitude. Consider what you are going to see and what you are going to do and make sure you are prepared for both. You have to wear safety gear. Boots, overalls, helmets and head lamps are all essential to get you around the mine safely. While you are in the mine people are actually working. They are not putting on a show. They are going about their business, earning their wage in some seriously unpleasant and unforgiving conditions. Some of the workers view tourists as an inconvenience and make no secret of that, while others appreciate the slight break in monotony and may stop to chat briefly or offer to pose for pictures. Whatever the reaction to your presence just be aware and be respectful! The fact that it is a functioning mine means the conditions are uncomfortable, sometimes dangerous and often pretty physically demanding. It is very poorly lit down there, the floors are uneven, the passageways are narrow and you are regularly required to climb under, over or through some pretty awkward routes. Your guide is likely to help you if you need, or wait in order to keep the group together but as I've said before, it's a working mine and you may find you are in somebody's way and have to hurry along or suddenly dodge out of the way. While you are down there you may hear or witness an explosion. These used to be done specifically for the tourists but that practice was banned a number of years ago as it was causing structural instability in the mines. In spite of it no longer being done for tourists it obviously still happens as a necessary part of the mining process. In theory it is nothing to worry about but this is the most dangerous part of being in a mine so just be aware that it could happen while you're inside. Finally, which company do you book with? Potosí is absolutely overrun with tours agencies offering trips to the mines and the prices range hugely. The cheapest I was quoted was 80BS and the most expensive was 150BS. Unlike in a lot of South America, not all of these tours are created equal and the price really does affect the quality and thus the level of safety. I would not have trusted any of the really cheap companies and I wouldn't recommend you do either. Like I said, the mines are not a comfortable or particularly safe environment and you want to be sure of the fact that all the safety precautions possible have been taken. In the end I actually opted for the most expensive company called 'Big Deal' tours which is entirely owned and run by current or ex-miners. They are by far the most reputable company in Potosí. They pay all of their employees a good and fair wage, go over and above when it comes to their safety measures on the tours (including always having a spare guide with a tour group in case any participants feel uncomfortable and decide they want to exit the mine) and are wonderfully informative and knowledgable. I cannot recommend this company highly enough and would never question using them if I ever decided to return. They are absolutely worth the extra expense! Overall, I am really pleased I decided to visit the mine. It wasn't fun and I'm not really sure I would say I enjoyed it, but I found it to be an important experience. I learned a lot on the excursion as a whole and gained a real appreciation for the struggle and suffering these people go through on a daily basis in a very dangerous vocation! If you are in Bolivia and considering going to Potosí then I would definitely recommend it, just as long as you're prepared for what it involves!
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