Machu Picchu on a BudgetWhen you think of Perú you instantly think of Machu Picchu, and rightly so! This 15th century Incan citadel sits proudly some 2,500m above sea level and looks down in all it's glory over the nearby town of Aguas Calientes. Justifiably voted as one of the Seven Wonders of the World and a UNESCO world heritage site, this is a hot spot not to miss!!
As with locations of this nature around the world, Peruvians are all too aware of the incomparable gloriousness that abounds this site and they have gone all out to cash in on it! When visiting Perú and planning a visit to Machu Picchu you will quickly learn there is no cheap way of doing it, but there are a number of options and some are significantly cheaper (although often significantly harder) than others! Riv and I did extensive (and it sometimes felt like endless) research surrounding the various possibilities before finally settling on a plan. I am simply going to detail the option we finally settled on but we have kept all of the notes on pricing and timing which we made at the time so if anyone out there would like more information on ANY of the options (planes, train, automobiles all covered) please feel free to send us and email! After hours of consideration, consultation and discussion we agreed we would take the longest, slowest and cheapest route to get ourselves to and from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, after all, we weren't in any kind of hurry and travel is about the journey not about the destination...right?! Hmm!! Our chosen option required us to start by taking a shared minivan from Cusco town centre to the Hidroelectrica, approximately 13km outside of Aguas Calientes via the windy back roads. This journey was reputed to take approximately 6 - 6 1/2hrs. This was merely stage one, as the next part of the journey involved getting from the Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes via the train line which connects the two locations...however in order to keep this excursion to an economic minimum this is not done with the use of a train as one might expect, but rather on foot, alongside the train line, a venture I coined a term for en route...'The Pilgrimage of the Cheap'! It was a long and hard day, but probably would have been shorter and easier had it not been for the typical travellers inconveniences that befell us along the way...I will start at the top... We had been told by the company with which we were travelling that our bus would leave promptly at 7am. Considering we were staying about a 30 minute bus ride outside of Cusco centre this seemed like an unappealingly early start but our decision had been made and we had to go with it. So, at 5.30am on day one of the Machu Picchu experience we rose, took the local bus into town, grabbed a very quick street snack for breakfast and then walked to our meeting point, arriving a comfortable 10 minutes early...and we waited...and waited...and waited some more! By 7.40am a reasonably sizeable group of frustrated travellers had collected, all of whom were exhibiting varying degrees of exasperation and frustration. Eventually someone showed up and informed us that the van would be along soon. Finally at 8.05 it arrived. We all piled on, only to discover there wasn't enough space for all of us, at which point Riv and I as two who were only using the van for transportation and not a full package excursion were instructed to vacate. Vacate we did and we returned to the street to stand and wait some more while the 'gentleman' who had insisted we get off offered no further explanation or resolution. Suddenly, without warning a car pulled up and we were pushed into the back with two other rather confused and flustered looking travellers. We were driven to one point where the two others were dropped off and we were then left sitting alone in the car while the driver and his friend consulted with each other and over the phone...still without explaining to either of us what the hell was going on! I am not going to give too much more detail about the comedy of errors that followed but suffice it to say we were unquantifiably relieved whilst also having dangerously high blood pressure when we finally got into another minivan and set off on our way...at 9.30!! The drive to Hidroelectrica was also not without it's dramas! We had been told in advance that the road was pretty windy and narrow and points but both of these adjectives appeared on closer inspection to be mildly understated! Parts of the journey could easily have been compared to some of the most extreme roller coasters either of us had ever been on and the addition of impatient and aggressive South American drivers did not help (although comparatively, ours was sensational...COMPARATIVELY!). Having made it to Hidroelectrica in one piece (just) we hoped that the business end of the drama for the day was over. In some ways this was true, in others, not so much! We were dropped off just before 3pm, giving us about 2 1/2hrs to do the 13km pilgrimage along the train lines to Aguas Calientes before nightfall. This seems doable but obviously to add to the joy of the experience it was at this time the heavens decided to open and pour down on us for the duration. Really not what we needed after what had already been a far too long and stressful day! However, by this stage, we had no choice and so we walked...and walked...and walked. It seemed never ending! 13km really didn't sound too bad to us when we planned this, we had walked far longer than this is a day on numerous occasions throughout our travels, but this time it seemed hateful and endless and relentless! Just as we had all but reached the end of our tethers we saw the lights of the town... we were nearly there! Seriously and honestly nearly there! As soon as we arrived we accosted by seemingly every guesthouse proprietor in town and after very brief and unenthusiastic negotiation on my part we settled on a place. Final little rub of salt into the wound...it was up another bloody hill!! It was at this point I really had to question just how wonderous this wonder of the world really could be in order to justify the effort we had gone to just to get to it!! After a good night's sleep but waking seriously feeling the effects of the day before we chose to give ourselves a days grace before embarking on the actual visit to Machu Picchu. On this day we armed ourselves with the unbelievably expensive entrance ticket to site at a ticket office in town, as well as a bus ticket to take us up the hill. After the mentally and physically exhausting joys of the day before we agreed that we would happily walk down the hill after visiting Machu Picchu but would not subject ourselves to a fairly significant and strenuous hike before we had even started...this would probably not have led to a true appreciation of what was at the end. I'm not going to give too much detail about our experience at Machu Picchu itself as this has been well documented by travellers and travel writers far more eloquent than myself innumerable times before. However, I will say, it was well worth the effort. When we reached the Sun Gate and gazed out over the enormity of this extraordinarily well preserved ancient citadel, all the pain, stress and mental trauma we had put ourselves through seem absolutely and totally worth it. And for once, clearly someone somewhere was on our side because after 3 days of fairly crappy weather in the region the skies cleared and we had the most beautiful blue skies with a just a powdery scattering of light fluffy clouds as our backdrop! There was no doubt in either of our minds that this site truly justifies it's status as one of the Seven Wonders of the World! After a difficult, but certainly not impossible trek down the hill and back to Aguas Calientes we both agreed the end certainly justified the means and we were more than happy that we had come! The next morning it was time for us to return to Cusco via embarkation on the 'Pilgrimage of the Cheap' but this time in reverse (13km walk to Hidroelectrica followed by 'windy and narrow' drive back to Cusco...yay). Obviously, the universe, having thrown us a fairly significant bone the day before decided it was time that we return back to reality and we awoke to an absolutely torrential downpour...this was not going to make the walk a pleasant one! We decided that all we could do was to start our day with a hearty feed and hope for the best. The best was not coming, the rain was not letting up and the closer it got to time for us to leave the more we were dreading it. I was trying to be positive as I repeatedly chanted our travel mantra of "it's either a good time or a good story". This journey was certainly going to fall into the latter but I knew deep deep DEEP down that it would reach that stage eventually! And then, suddenly, without provocation or expectation our travel guardian angel shone her light on us and offered us a way out. Having spoken to my Mum earlier that morning about our intentions to undergo this expedition in what could only be described at this stage as a monsoon she blind refused to let us do it and insisted without the possibility for debate that she would treat us to the the train back to Cusco directly from Aguas Calientes and entirely remove any need to rain trekking! We had previously completely negated this as an option and put it into the 'far too indulgent for our type of travelling' pile, but we weren't going to say no twice! After a very excited (and rather wet) run to the train station we booked or seats and we were off! Our Machu Picchu experience was rounded off with a beautiful train journey through the Peruvian countryside and surrounding mountains (whilst looking out on the torrential rain)! Overall our Machu Picchu experience was wonderful. Memorable in both good and bad ways but one which neither of us would have changed a single minute of (ok, maybe the final hill walk in Aguas Calientes could have been left out)! We did the round trip from Cusco in a total of three days and three nights. Most do it in two and some complete nutters do it in one. Obviously there is also the Inca Trail, but this wasn't something either of considered in any of our options...it's just not our idea of a good time! Personally, if I were to do it again I would still do it in three days as our choice of the cheapo's route is pretty physically demanding in itself but obviously your time constraint and own physical abilities and preferences could determine a different choice. However you choose to get there and what you choose to do once you are there I can absolutely guarantee you will not retreat a trip to Machu Picchu. And, I can personally vouch for the sense of satisfaction and intense level of humour felt after completion of the Pilgrimage of the Cheap!
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Arriving into Puno was pretty easy due to the fact that we'd already established where we were going stay courtesy of Julio. Upon arriving at the bus station, Julio delivered us to a couple with a baby who traipsed us through the streets to their guesthouse. In all fairness the guesthouse was lovely but due to the fact that Julio later turned nasty we would not recommend staying here or booking with the 2 associated tour companies. We stayed at Sol Andina Inn for S/35 ($14 AUD/10.70 USD) for a double room. We had wanted to enquire in town about tours on Lake Titicaca but had asked Julio from Lago Tours first how much his day trip to the floating islands and Taquile Island cost to get an idea. Unfortunately this is when he decided he was entitled to our business. We returned from town having booked with a lovely lady at a reputable looking agency for S/34 pp ($13.60 AUD/10.45 USD) instead of with Lago Tours for S/45 ($18 AUD/13.85 USD) and we were having lunch included with our tour, which Lago weren't offering. On informing Julio that we had gone with another company he got very angry and really intimidated Dani. The next morning he showed up at the guesthouse while we were waiting for our tour guide to show up. When she did he spoke to her angrily in Spanish and she told us that she couldn't take us after all. He demanded to see our tickets and then laughed and told us our company was unreliable and not official. When the second person showed up to get us (I waited outside this time so Julio couldn't interfer) Julio again tried to intimidate this guide and started yelling at him as we were trying to leave. We eventually got going but I would definitely avoid interacting with both Julio and Lago Tours. It was actually due to his association with the guesthouse that we decided to leave the next day instead of staying in Puno. The day trip to the islands was great. We headed out with our travel kids (yes still with us since the start of Bolivia) to the first stop, which are the floating islands. Honestly, Dani and I felt the same about these islands. Although it is very cool that they have developed this technique to live on the lake by creating islands out of reeds and floating moss beds, they have become an exploitative tourist trap. From the moment you arrive on the island you are pressured into spending more and more money. We had decided not to get on the reed boat for a trip round the island but the pressure to go was really unpleasant. There is also a huge push to buy handicrafts while you are on the island. We are quite used to this in lots of tourist hotspots but what saddened me was the way the youngest child on the island, who was maybe 3, had already been trained to use her cuteness to get tourists to buy things and give her things. I was pleased though, that after she realised she wasn't able to get me to give her things (I'm not horrible I promise but I know how damaging it can be to children to continue this pattern) we were able to engage in a game which meant that for at least 15 minutes that day she was able to just be a kid. The next stop was Taquile Island, which was actually what makes this trip amazing. Be warned though that the hike at 4000m above sea level is extremely challenging if you haven't adjusted yet or are finding the altitude a general struggle. Make sure you've brought along some coca leaves or candy and take the climb slowly. This felt horrible on the way up and I thought my lungs were going to explode but boy am I glad we made it. The village at the top of the hill was beautiful and those who live there are still living real traditional lifestyles. They are the last of the true Incas. The men knit and the women tend to the flocks and cook. It's quite a surreal place to visit. We wandered around for a while and then walked to the lunch spot, which was equally as beautiful. We were treated to a delicious traditional lunch and shown how to use native plants to wash wool and how the perform courtship dances. I would highly recommend an overnight stay on Taquile. You can get a ferry to the island independently and I think this is by far the better option. It’s about 2 hours to get to the island by ferry and is a very pretty trip. Once on the island I believe the sleeping options are homestays with local families and I’m certain these can be prearranged on the mainland if you are concerned about sorting this on the island. We unfortunately had not arranged to stay and so returned to the mainland via ferry after the return trip down the hill and to the other side of the island. Up early the next morning we headed to the market for breakfast before the kids woke up. We managed to grab a great breakfast for S/5 ($2AUD/1.5 USD) each and then went back to the hostel to grab our bags and kids before heading for the bus station. This was to be another goodbye with the girls as we were heading off to Arequipa and they were going straight to Cusco. Both groups were able to get buses leaving within the next hour and our bus to Arequipa cost us S/20 ($8 AUD/6.15 USD) plus a S/1.5 ($0.60 AUD/0.45 USD) departure tax. A word of advice for a route around Peru is head to Cusco and then down to Arequipa rather than the way we did it…hindsight is a beautiful thing! This will make travelling onto Lima much easier, shorter and less stressful. Our bus to Arequipa took 6 hours and was relatively entertaining as 3 high/drunk young Colombians spent the whole time in and out of the toilet getting more and more out of touch with reality. The process to get out of Puno also took forever as we were stopping every 20m or so to pick people up or let on snack vendors. Luckily for us they were selling some great and cheap snacks which we were more than happy to sample. We got in to Arequipa late in the afternoon and caught a cab from the bus station to the center of town. The taxi rank outside of the bus station has regulated prices so it’s nice and easy and will cost you S/8 ($3.20 AUD/2.45 USD). After doing our usual rounds of hostels Dani found us a room in MGZ Hostal for S/35 ($14 AUD/10.70 USD), which had a small but functional room and Perú’s fastest WiFi. It also happened to be 3 blocks down from the main square and 3 blocks from the central markets…perfect! We quickly settled into our room and then headed to the market for some food. As we had arrived late and on a Sunday we had limited options but we managed to get one of our favorite dinners in South America which is an avocado, a bag of tomatoes (tomato salad in a bag is actually one of our travel staple meals all around the world), some fresh queso and a couple of salteñas all of which came to S/15 ($6 AUD/4.60 USD). We headed back to the guesthouse and had a picnic in our room while planning the next few days. We had booked to do the Arequipa free walking tour the next morning, which leaves from just outside the main square and is well worth taking the time to do. We learnt all about the history of Arequipa, one of Perú’s revolutionary cities, all while ambling around some of the prettiest architecture in South America. Needless to say by the end of the tour we had fallen in love with Arequipa and where quite content wandering through the cobbled streets looking a gorgeous buildings and eating amazing food (Perú has an excellent culinary reputation for a reason) for the next few days. Part of this wandering was also finding a good tour company to take to go to the Colca Canyon for an overnight trip. For a lot of people the best way to see the Colca Canyon is by hiking on a 2 or 3 day trip or independently but for those of you (like us) who either can’t or don’t want to (absolutely no judgment from us) this overnight trip is great. As the Colca Canyon is a good 5 hours away I wouldn’t recommend the day trip which starts painfully early in the morning, gets you back in the late evening and rushes you through everything all day! (If you need any more information about this feel free to drop us an email and we’ll happily answer any questions, Dani got all of the information from most of the companies in Arequipa about the different options) We ended up going with a company that cost S/180 ($71.85 AUD/55.30 USD) each for an English-speaking guide, transport, entrance fees, accommodation, lunch on the first day and breakfast and lunch on the second day. This was a great deal and the trip was excellent. Our only complaint is that our minivan broke down about 30 minutes outside of Arequipa on the way there and we had to spend over an hour on the side of the road waiting for a replacement minivan after being promised it would take 20 minutes. This on its own wouldn’t be worth mentioning (we are in South America after all) however on the way home the next day the replacement minivan broke down at the highest point of the journey (around 4,900m above sea level) and the driver was refusing to return to Chivay (the nearest town) to fix it. It took just over 2 hours (again we were promised 20 minutes) to remedy the situation and this high point at almost 5000m can be quite difficult if you suffer any effects from altitude. All this being said the actual trip was great. On the way to Chivay (the town at the start of the canyon) you drive through the National Park where you are given the opportunity to photograph vincuñas (wild llama cousins) and alpacas, which roam freely throughout. Chivay itself is a cute little town and has good amenities for tourists. It has plenty of tour companies that can arrange day trips and treks into the canyon should you decide to travel independently and book from there yourself. Tip: Should you decide to do this trip independently you will have to head back to Arequipa to continue on to Cusco afterwards. The reason being the only bus available from Chivay direct to Cusco is a tourist only bus going three times a week and costing an astronomical $60 USD ($78 AUD)! We were booked into a nice little hotel as part of the tour and were up early for breakfast and pickup the next morning. It’s worth noting that the included breakfast is just a bread roll, jam and coffee. This wouldn’t ordinarily be a problem, but the morning is fairly long and involves a decent amount of activity and this isn’t much to be going on. Day 2 of the trip is definitely the better day starting off with driving along side the stunning canyon. You are taken to a few villages along the way which seem a bit pointless by village 3 as they all contain the same array of overcrowded tourist stalls with more llama socks and trinkets than you can shake a stick at, but they are quaint. Then you are taken to Cruz del Condor where you can see these slightly intimidating huge birds catching thermals and rising above the canyon. On arrival here having seen some condors along the way we were pleasantly surprised by the fact that the thick mist covering the canyon and obstructing our view actually added to the charm. The canyon would peak though the mist and then be covered again in an instant. It was actually a beautiful sight to see. After and hour of wandering around we were shuffled back in to the minivan and back to Chivay for our wonderful lunch. This, similar to the day before, is a buffet consisting of many of Perú’s most delectable dishes including a selection of soups and deserts. This is a great way to sample what Peruvian cuisine has to offer and find out what you want to have more of on your travels. After lunch it was back in the minivan to head back to Arequipa we were due to arrive at around 5pm and had planned to head straight to the bus station to catch a bus to Cusco but due to the aforementioned breakdown we actually arrived closer to 8pm and decided that we would keep our fingers crossed that MGZ had a room for us. Luckily enough for us it did and we sunk exhausted into our bed for the night. We now had an extra day to kill in Arequipa but as we loved this city it wasn’t hard to spend another few hours wandering the streets and eating some more great food. When we finally got bored we headed out to the bus station to grab an overnight bus to Cusco. As taxi fares are regulated we knew we should be paying S/8 ($3.20 AUD/2.45 USD) for the journey and after originally being quoted S/10 ($4 AUD/ 3 USD) by a driver we agreed on the official sum of S/8. On arrival at the bus station the driver insisted that we pay him S/10. Now we know that this isn’t a lot of money but it’s the principal of it, so after arguing for about 5 minutes he agreed to S/8 again…this is when it got a bit strange. Dani handed him a S/10 note and he handed us back 2 S/5 coins and then sped off. We’re not sure how or why he did this but we ended up with a free taxi ride to the bus station when all we’d wanted to do was pay the correct fare. After a loop of the station to scout out the different companies we booked a Civa bus to Cusco which cost S/30 ($12 AUD/9.20 USD) each for their Superciva class which was really comfortable. The journey took 11 hours and was an easy smooth ride. When we arrived at the Cusco bus station we were greeted by a very lovely and smiley guy who offered to take us to his guesthouse and he was offering double rooms with private bathrooms for S/35 ($14 AUD/10.70 USD) a night. As we knew that the girls had been paying S/40 ($15.95 AUD/12.30 USD) each for a dorm room this seemed like a great deal. We took a look at the map he had and it looked like it was between 12-14 blocks from the center, which didn’t bother us so we jumped in a cab with him and off we went. Well, on arrival we thought we’d hit the jackpot. The room was great with 2 double beds, a private bathroom, hot water and breakfast included. Not only that but the family who run the guesthouse including the lovely boy who met us at the bus station were incredible. The catch was that when we logged into the super fast WiFi we discovered that the 12-14 blocks on the map were in between a whole lot of other streets and we were actually 6km outside of the historic center. This transpired to be a small blessing. Not only did we have a beautiful and quiet room at a reasonable cost but also it meant we got to have fun figuring out Cusco’s great collective public transport system. It turned out that it was really easy from where we were staying just to jump in a minivan with the right company, always taking a different route to the city. As we’d arrived so early in the morning we decided we would do a walking tour of Cusco. Now despite the fact that our guide Jamie was very sweet, it wasn’t a great tour but we did see some interesting bits of Cusco. I’m not sure we could recommend either of the companies we ended up touring with while in Cusco, but its always a good way to orientate yourself in a new city so give one a go. We were pleased to find out on our return to the guesthouse that Nic who we had met in Bolivia was in Cusco and was keen to meet up with us the next day. We agreed to meet for our second walking tour and afterwards headed to the Sunday food market. It was here that Dani finally got to try the famous cuy (guinea pig) and fell in love with the controversial dish. We left Nic agreeing to meet him the next day at the chocolate museum (more like a shop with information and free samples) and planned a ‘travel family’ reunion as the girls were arriving back from their Amazon trip. After tracking down the girls and Nic and sampling our way through the museum we found a quiet pub to settle into for the afternoon. We had a great catch up with the family and managed to put away a fair amount of alcohol before saying our final goodbyes to our travel family. After 4 weeks and 2 countries together on and off this was going to be the last time we saw each other in South America. With promises to see each other again in Europe in the summer we left feeling strangely heavy hearted. It’s something Dani and I talk about a lot is how quickly you make travel friends. When in the real world to you ever meet someone at a bus station and decided to go on holiday with them?! In our world we do this all the time. The connections you make while travelling are quick and strong but can last just for the time your together or in some cases a lifetime. Part of our time in Cusco had been spent deliberating on the many different options we had to see Machu Picchu. We aren’t trekkers and don’t do so well with altitude so the trails weren’t for us (a good thing to note is that the Inca Trail is closed during February which means that it’s a quieter time to go) but there is the train, the minivan option, the minivan and train option, the 2 day 1 night tours the 2 days 2 night tours etc etc. I’m going to leave Dani to tell you about not only about all the options but also about the ones we took and how to do it in the next post. All that Glistens is not GoldThe first thing I want to say about this is that a decision to visit the mines should not be taken lightly. Before you decide to go a few things really need to be considered.
Firstly, why are you going? Are you going because you have a particular interest in the mining industry? Is it because it's another one of those things that travellers do when travelling through Bolivia? Do you have a slightly morbid fascination with seeing the brutal and unrelentingly harsh working conditions of silver miners in a developing country? I'm not saying that any of these reasons is more or less valid than another. Whatever your reason at least you are showing an interest, all I'm saying is this is not your average traveller's excursion/day trip and you should have given a little thought as to why you've decided to go before you do so! Secondly, what is actually involved in a trip down the mines? This isn't a trip to a museum or a walk around a sanitary reconstruction of a mine, you are going into a working silver mine, deep underground at altitude. Consider what you are going to see and what you are going to do and make sure you are prepared for both. You have to wear safety gear. Boots, overalls, helmets and head lamps are all essential to get you around the mine safely. While you are in the mine people are actually working. They are not putting on a show. They are going about their business, earning their wage in some seriously unpleasant and unforgiving conditions. Some of the workers view tourists as an inconvenience and make no secret of that, while others appreciate the slight break in monotony and may stop to chat briefly or offer to pose for pictures. Whatever the reaction to your presence just be aware and be respectful! The fact that it is a functioning mine means the conditions are uncomfortable, sometimes dangerous and often pretty physically demanding. It is very poorly lit down there, the floors are uneven, the passageways are narrow and you are regularly required to climb under, over or through some pretty awkward routes. Your guide is likely to help you if you need, or wait in order to keep the group together but as I've said before, it's a working mine and you may find you are in somebody's way and have to hurry along or suddenly dodge out of the way. While you are down there you may hear or witness an explosion. These used to be done specifically for the tourists but that practice was banned a number of years ago as it was causing structural instability in the mines. In spite of it no longer being done for tourists it obviously still happens as a necessary part of the mining process. In theory it is nothing to worry about but this is the most dangerous part of being in a mine so just be aware that it could happen while you're inside. Finally, which company do you book with? Potosí is absolutely overrun with tours agencies offering trips to the mines and the prices range hugely. The cheapest I was quoted was 80BS and the most expensive was 150BS. Unlike in a lot of South America, not all of these tours are created equal and the price really does affect the quality and thus the level of safety. I would not have trusted any of the really cheap companies and I wouldn't recommend you do either. Like I said, the mines are not a comfortable or particularly safe environment and you want to be sure of the fact that all the safety precautions possible have been taken. In the end I actually opted for the most expensive company called 'Big Deal' tours which is entirely owned and run by current or ex-miners. They are by far the most reputable company in Potosí. They pay all of their employees a good and fair wage, go over and above when it comes to their safety measures on the tours (including always having a spare guide with a tour group in case any participants feel uncomfortable and decide they want to exit the mine) and are wonderfully informative and knowledgable. I cannot recommend this company highly enough and would never question using them if I ever decided to return. They are absolutely worth the extra expense! Overall, I am really pleased I decided to visit the mine. It wasn't fun and I'm not really sure I would say I enjoyed it, but I found it to be an important experience. I learned a lot on the excursion as a whole and gained a real appreciation for the struggle and suffering these people go through on a daily basis in a very dangerous vocation! If you are in Bolivia and considering going to Potosí then I would definitely recommend it, just as long as you're prepared for what it involves! If You Hear Hoof Beats Think Llamas Not HorsesBolivia was our next stop and we had been very much looking forward to getting back into developing countries since we had arrived back in to Buenos Aires from the cruise. We arrived at the Quijarro bus station after a long morning and were ushered to a bus company by our taxi driver to book a bus for that evening to Santa Cruz. Tired and having had bad news from NZ the night before we decided to just book the bus instead of shopping around. This meant we paid 100 bolivianos (BS) ($19.10 AUD/14.45 USD) each for the trip but were on a very nice comfortable bus. We did then discover that you could do this journey for as little as 70BS ($13.40 AUD/10.10 USD) with other companies but with a major concession in seat comfort, toilet facilities and cleanliness. We headed in search of soda and food and it was here that in very broken Spanish and Google translate we had an interesting conversation with a local kid who was fascinated by our travels and had a million rather random questions. We then headed into the market for lunch and managed to order some delicious soup and a meal of rice and meat (Dani ate the meat) for 34BS ($6.45 AUD/4.95 USD) for both our meals. It was time to settle in for our 8-hour wait for the bus. It turns out we had some very decent Wi-Fi available and soon a group of 3 British girls joined us and helped us pass the time. We had booked different buses but we passed on the name of the hostel we were looking at staying and hoped we might see them in Santa Cruz. Our bus departed pretty much on time and we arrived in Santa Cruz at 5.30am in a tropical storm (yay for travelling in rainy season) so decided to wait at the bus stop until the rain eased and it was light. This turned into a bit of a nightmare the taxis we had scouted out earlier somehow disappeared when we went out at 8am. After an extended wait in the rain we were soaking, but finally managed to stop a taxi. Subsequently, at the worst possible moment, we were refused the journey and neither of us spoke enough Spanish to understand why. After much welcomed intervention from some locals we finally got a cab to Santa Cruz Hostel and Bar. When we got in low and behold there were Nat, Maz and Amy, the 3 girls from the bus station. Somehow they had arrived before us despite leaving Quijarro an hour later than we had. With a quick discussion we decided we would share a room, which cost us 70BS ($13.40 AUD/10.10 USD) each for an air-conditioned room with a private bathroom (this turned out to be the most expensive accomodation we had in the whole of Bolivia, but in Santa Cruz there appear to be few options available at a reasonable price...the reason for this still escapes us!). We also agreed that we would all go out and explore separately but that we would meet up for some caipirinhas later in the afternoon. Dani and I headed to the main square for some shopping and to get more money. It was on this walk that we found the local food market that has small local ‘restaurants’ upstairs. This has great soups and meals at all the stalls and a filling soup will set you back just 5BS ($0.95 AUD/0.70 USD). After picking up some limes, sugar and water for the evening’s activities we headed back to the hostel for some afternoon drinks. Many many hours later we were sufficiently drunk and discussing following the girls to La Paz instead of heading to Samaipata on our own. Waking up feeling slightly worse for wear we debated whether it was feasible for us to head to La Paz. This plan would mean skipping half of the destinations that we wanted to do in Bolivia and so sadly we had to agree this plan wouldn't work. This is where Fernando, the wonderful owner of the hostel stepped in. When asking for information about the route, he informed the girls that the best thing they could do was to go to Samaipata either as a day trip on the way to Sucre or as an overnight stop then carry down to Uyuni from Sucre. Well, it was set, instead of La Paz we were all going to stay another night in Santa Cruz and then head to Samaipata together. We had heard about a zoo in Santa Cruz that had “pleasantly humane conditions” and free ranging sloths and chose to visit here for a full day with the girls before Samaipata. It cost 10BS ($1.90AUD/1.40USD) each for entrance. While we can report that the second part is true and amazing, the pleasantly humane conditions were far from accurate. About 50% of the animals were kept in acceptable conditions the others were in cramped cages with sad desperate looking faces. Due to this I would suggest if it's sloths you're after head to the Botanical Gardens where you can also spot them roaming freely (while we didn’t do this trip ourselves, our guesthouse manager informed us that this was an easy bus journey away and an entrance of 20BS). Early the next morning we all headed off on foot to the shared cab (‘truffis’) station just a few blocks away from the centre of town. Fernando had informed us that it should cost 30BS ($5.75 AUD/4.30 USD) each and that we would need a 6th person or have to pay for the whole car. On arrival we were told that it would cost an extra 5BS ($0.95 AUD/0.70 USD) for our bags that by this stage had been strapped to the roof (we were pretty sure this was gringo tax). We were also informed that we would need 7 people to leave or pay 200BS ($38.20 AUD/28.85 USD) for the whole car. We established that having a big group was beneficial for being able to leave quicker but also left us more susceptible to ‘gringo tax’. We decided to wait and it wasn't long until Nicolas a lovely Frenchman came along to join us. At this point we decided that we would pay the 200BS so that we could get on our way and we all piled into the station wagon. On arrival in Samaipata we sent Nic and Dani off as our most competent Spanish speakers to check out some guesthouses while the rest of us watched the bags (we often choose this option, even if it is just the two of us as it makes the hunt much easier and less stressful). They established there were a few hostels around that would be between 35BS ($6.70 AUD/5.05 USD) and 45BS ($8.60 AUD/6.50 USD) for a bed in a dorm depending on whether there was a private bathroom or not. As we wandered down the street we decided to check out another guesthouse just off the main square. Hostel Rosario was 30BS ($5.75 AUD/4.30 USD) a night and had a nice enough room for all 6 of us with single beds rather than bunks. As it was cheaper we all agreed to stay, unfortunately, this hostel, as cheap as it was, turned out to be a bit of a backpackers nightmare. The list of rules was a mile long and included no talking loudly, howling (yes howling), no alcohol, no using the main entrance and no sitting in the communal area after 5pm. This basically meant no fun! To add salt to the wound the showers and rooms were swarming with mosquitos and the outside areas were thick with them. To enforce these rules was a girl of maybe 15 who would stare and follow us around the hostel. Every so often she would approach me and speak in very quick Spanish so I would have to grab Nic or Dani over to help translate. She was slightly unnerving, however I do believe she was just fascinated in this strange group of gringos frequenting her establishment. Once we had settled in we decided we'd check out the tour agencies in town to see how much it would cost to do the 2 main attractions surrounding Samaipata, El Fuerte (the Inca Ruins) and Cuevas, which are the waterfalls. The tours get progressively cheaper the more people you have and for both in one day we were quoted between 165BS ($31.55 AUD/23.80 USD) and 200BS ($38.20 AUD/28.85 USD) each which included the entrance to both. We then discovered that a taxi to El Fuerte would cost us 110BS ($21 AUD/15.90 USD) total with the 50BS ($9.55 AUD/7.20 USD) entrance each. For Cuevas it would cost 100BS ($19.10 AUD/14.40 USD) for the taxi and an extra 15BS ($2.85AUD/2.15 USD) each for the entrance fee. Overall this meant for the 2 trips over two days (which we decided would be a more relaxing option), it would only cost us 104BS ($19.90 AUD/15 USD) each because Nic only joined us for El Fuerte. One thing to note is that the taxis allow you 2 hours at the attractions before they increase their prices for waiting. This can be negotiated but is the standard rule. After making our decisions regarding our excursions for our time in Samaipata we opted to head to the local market and pick up some ingredients for a shared dinner. This was an excellent idea as a bag of 5 large avocados only cost 10BS ($1.90 AUD/1.45 USD) and only 13BS ($2.50 AUD/1.90 USD) for a large bag of tomatoes, 2 onions and some limes. This meant we could make a giant guacamole (Riv's signature dip) and tomato salsa for the sum total of 23BS ($4.40 AUD/3.30 USD) for 6. The next day we headed off to El Fuerte in a taxi, which we simply picked up from the main square in the morning. The drive took about 25 minutes and was all up hill! Some travel guides may say that you can do this on foot (somewhere between 8-10kms each way depending on the route you take) but having done it in a car and in the heat of Samaipata I wouldn’t say this is a reasonable expectation of anyone! When we arrived our driver gave us our meeting time of just over two hours later and after paying our entrance we headed in and followed the well-mapped route around the grounds. Throughout the area there are well signposted lookouts and signs with detailed explanations in English and Spanish. Don’t let the tour agencies in town convince you that you need a guide, it is completely unnecessary. The two hours allotted to us by our driver turned out to be absolutely perfect as we finished the loop in just enough time for a quick bathroom stop at the end before getting in the taxi back to town. Day two in Samaipata and it was time for our trip to the waterfall. As mentioned before Nic had chosen to do an alternative trip to a local national park that day so it was just the five of us. Prior to going we had decided to pack a picnic lunch to have at the waterfall while we were there. In preparation we headed back to the market to grab supplies and were elated to find out that a bag of mangoes only cost 5BS ($0.95 AUD/0.70 USD). Supplies acquired, it was back to the main square where again we very quickly and easy got ourselves a taxi and set off to the waterfall. As we’ve said, taxi drivers give you a two hour waiting time when taking you to the local attractions. Once at the waterfall, Dani managed to negotiate an extra 30 minutes, but in hindsight, given the nature of the visit and the desire to sit and chill and maybe go for a couple of dips in one of the three waterfalls in the area a longer stay would have been preferable. This should be negotiated with your potential driver before leaving town. That evening we had planned our route on to Sucre via night bus. These tickets can be bought for 90BS ($16.90AUD/13USD) from the Nueva Touristica restaurant/bus station, which is a short and easy 10minute walk from the main square. Ask in any of the tour agencies and they will point you in the right direction and it’s probably best to arrange this the day before or at least the morning of the day you are leaving rather than just turning up and expecting to get on. We had pre booked our tickets the day before and were informed that we needed to return at 8pm for departure at 9pm. Now, in the guide books this journey is described as being anywhere between 13 and 23 hours from Santa Cruz so we had no idea how long this journey would take or the type of bus that was going to show up. This normally wouldn't be an issue but the next day happened to be Dani's birthday so the thought of spending the whole day on a bus (should it take the full 23 hours) was a little daunting. We ordered some food and sat patiently waiting, as bus after bus arrived that wasn't ours. The owner of the restaurant became increasingly amused as the gringos got less and less patient with each passing bus constantly gesturing at us that we should sit and he would get us when the us arrived. Well, the bus that rocked up wasn't the luxury that we had become accustomed to in Argentina, Chile, and Brazil or even from Quijarro to Santa Cruz. This was very much a local bus. Built a little to high for comfort it swayed every time we turned a corner (a great thing when going through the mountains) and we were possibly sat over the engine, which meant it was unbelievably hot. Also the noises coming from the engine left us a little skeptical as to whether we would make it to Sucre at all. After a difficult nights sleep we awoke to a beautiful sunrise in the mountains of Bolivia. The bus pulled in to the station at 7.30am meaning the journey had only taken just over 10 hours, which we took as a birthday miracle. Next came our amusing journey to the centre. A kind taxi driver offered to take us for 5BS ($0.95 AUD/0.70 USD) each and loaded the 6 gringos into his station wagon complete with our 6 large backpacks. This required skills that even a circus contortionist might have found difficult. Perched on Dani's lap in the front seat I had a great view of Sucre as we sped through the narrow streets. After checking out a couple of hostels some which looked great but didn't have enough space for all 6 of us we settled on Travellers Guesthouse for 40BS ($7.65 AUD/5.80 USD) each a night each. We had a 6-bed dorm to ourselves and this turned out to be a small miracle in itself as 4 of us came down with gastro and only the birthday girl and Nat were unscathed. Now those of you who know us know that we make a big deal about birthdays, but unfortunately as this is actually the first birthday either of us have had where we didn't know where we would be before hand it was difficult to plan. Luckily due to the awesome friends we had acquired Dani had a great day and even managed to find birthday cake in the Bolivar square market. We also had a bit of a laugh on the paddle boats (10BS /1.90 AUD/1.45 USD) each in the pond in front of the "Eiffel Tower" and in the evening we headed to the supermarket to put together a birthday feast and a few drinks. At this point we had predicted our group would be separated. This was due to the fact that the girls were wanting to push on to Uyuni after a night in Sucre, Nic was wanting to stay in Sucre a little longer and we were planning to stop in Potosi for 2 nights. Well, as fate would have it, the majority of the group were struck down by gastro. Now not that we would wish that on anyone, we were secretly a little pleased that this meant we could at least carry on with the girls to Potosí for a night then on to Uyuni together. We said goodbye to Nic with promises to try to meet up later in La Paz and headed out to grab a taxi. We were able to flag one down and it cost us the same 5BS ($0.95 AUD/0.70 USD) each it had cost on the way there. At the bus station we were flooded with offers to get us to Potosí. Originally we were planning to take a shared taxi which we had been informed would cost us 200BS ($38.20 AUD/28.40 USD) for the car but as we looked around we could only see cars that would require the aforementioned contortionist skills ok for a 10 minute ride and not so much for the predicted 2 hours. This meant the longer bus 3-4 hour bus ride, which cost us 15BS ($2.85AUD/2.15 USD) each after a small amount of large group motivated negotiation. Just a tip there is an exit tax that needs to be paid before they let you on the bus. This costs 2.50BS and you can pay this at a counter near the exit. The bus to Potosí was nice enough for a short journey although winding around the mountains at 10km/hr we weren't sure the bus was cut out for the journey. Equally we were stumped as to why every so often the bus attendant would jump off the bus, pick up a few large rocks and toss them into the baggage hold. Just another mystery in the joys of South American bus travel. Arriving in the estimated time we checked into a great room at Hostal Felimar for 42BS ($7.95AUD/6.10USD) each in a private 4-bed room that they allowed us to cram 5 into with a hot shower and a basic breakfast. Potosí is a great town with some ruggedly beautiful architecture and a great central market. The main reason to visit Potosí is the silver mines that you can visit. I didn't feel I could cope in altitude down the mines and witnessing the harrowing conditions that the miners work in so Dani decided she was going to do this one on her own (she's always been braver than me). She paid for the expensive tour done by the only company run by ex-miners. We both felt it was important that she use a company that supports ex-miners rather than the less safety conscious more exploitative tours. Her tour cost 150BS ($28.45AUD/21.85USD), which included safety equipment, water and transport. You are also expected to buy a gift for the miners and it cost 15BS ($2.85AUD/2.20USD) for some soft drink and coca leaves. I'll leave it to Dani to tell you about the actual mines in a separate post. While Dani was in the mines I took the safer option of watching our travel children drink beer for breakfast and waited patiently for my spouse to return. From Potosí it was onward to Uyuni to see the world famous Salt Flats. We boarded a bus at the old bus station (a 20 minute walk downhill from the centre) after Dani’s tour. These buses leave hourly and take approximately 4-5 hours. Due to our late start we arrived in Uyuni after dark. Dani was exhausted by her taxing trip that morning, which meant finding a hostel, and a tour for the next day seemed impossible. This was until the lovely Andrea accosted us. She was offering a hotel and tour for the next day but being bombarded with information at the speed of light we weren’t sure how to proceed. Andrea was offering a night’s accommodation and a day trip to the salt flats for 300BS ($56.85AUD/43.75USD). I managed to negotiate this down to 250BS ($47.40AUD/36.45USD) with no commitment until we saw the hotel. She shuffled us into 2 taxis (which she paid for) to take us to the hotel. In hindsight the bus station is only 3 blocks away from the centre and this was unnecessary but as Dani was exhausted and a few of us were still recovering from 'Bolivia Belly' this seemed needed at the time. The hotel she took us to didn’t have a room for 5 so we were offered 2 doubles and a single for the same price as a dorm. This was already a bonus (at least for us), as we hadn’t had a room to ourselves since the cruise. Dani managed to negotiate 2 nights plus the tour for 300BS and despite not being able to check out other companies this seemed like a good deal. The hotel was called Residencial La Cabaña and without a tour costs 60BS ($11.35AUD/8.75USD) per person and includes a basic breakfast.
The tour is the standard 1-day tour, which takes you to the rail cemetery (the old trains used to transport salt), a craft market, and the salt hotel for lunch (included) and then onto the salt flats. We were lucky enough to experience the flats as well as a bit of the reflective surface caused by flooding, however due to the wind there was not quite the ground turning into the sky we were hoping for. The girls also got to ride on the roof of the 4x4, which by the sounds of the singing, squealing and whooping they seemed to enjoy. Overall, this was a great day trip however we did leave feeling that we may have been better visiting the lesser known Salar de Grande in Argentina for a less package tour type experience. We had discussed taking a night bus to La Paz straight after the tour but none of us felt up to this. We were told we could catch a bus to La Paz in the morning that would take 10 hours and would cost 110BS ($20.85AUD/16USD). If you're there on the right day there are also trains that run to Oruro (you can then catch a bus on to La Paz) a few times a week. It will depend on the schedule whether this is a cheaper option or a much more expensive one as there are 2 different companies that share this service. If you are in time to catch the Warra Warra service it will cost 60BS ($11.35AUD/8.75USD) to Oruro and then 20BS ($3.80AUD/2.90USD) to catch a bus from Oruro to La Paz. This may be the most comfortable overnight journey however the train doesn’t leave until after midnight on the day scheduled (not the morning of as this also confused us). The third and cheapest option is the bus to Oruro and then a bus on to La Paz. The bus to Oruro is no longer via an unpaved road and takes between 4-5 hours and runs frequently throughout the day. We decided that this was our best option and the first bus cost 30BS ($5.60AUD/4.35USD). On route Dani and I made the decision that we would stay in Oruro for the night as we were both too tired to keep pushing on. We got off the bus together and with a quick “La Pa… La Paaaaz” the girls were ushered off and gone … taking us back to 2. From Foz we had decided to head to Bonito via Campo Grande. Now I know that there are a lot of people who may think we're mad not to visit São Paulo or Rio and completely off our rockers not heading to some of Brazil's beautiful beaches but neither of those things are really us. We're more small town, nature and wildlife type travellers. To get to Bonito from Foz you have a couple of options. The first is the 10-hour bus journey to Dourados and then a 6-hour journey to Bonito. Alternatively you can do 13 hours to Campo Grande and the 4-6 (depending on your transport choice) to Bonito. The reason we chose Campo Grande was it wound up being much cheaper than Dourados and seemingly slightly less hassle as well. This journey should cost R$157pp ($66.60 AUD/50.35 USD). Campo Grande doesn't really have a lot to offer travellers other than being a jumping point for Bonito and the Pantanals. Due to this there are quite a few hostels that also out source tours to both places. We spoke to 3 operators while we were there and spoke to other travellers who had taken these trips. The first person we spoke to was Al (based in Foz do Iguazu) from Santa Clara Pousada & Camping. He offered us the camping option 2 nights/3 days (either tents, hammocks or outdoor dorms) for R$560 ($238AUD/180 USD) or the air-conditioned dorm for R$780 ($331.40AUD/250 USD). This included all meals and transport from our hostel in Bonito or Campo Grande to the Pantanals but not our onward journey after. For an additional R$30 ($12.75AUD/9.60 USD) transport to Corumba can be arranged so you can cross into Bolivia (alternatively you can go to Campo Grande or Bonito – all for additional costs). A quote from a representative in Campo Grande from Santa Clara was R$790 ($335.60 AUD/253.35 USD) for the camping option and this was exactly the same trip with the same company so it pays to shop around! The other option we were given for 2 nights/3 days was R$650 ($276 AUD/208.30 USD) for an air-conditioned dorm all meals includes, similar wildlife trips and all transport from Bonito and to Corumba included. After much negotiation with both tour companies (via Whatsapp) offering us trips to the Pantanals we decided to go with Santa Clara tours due to their great reputation. We ended up paying R$590 ($250.50 AUD/189.10 USD) for the tour (in the air-conditioned dorm, which we had to ourselves) plus an extra R$90 ($38.20 AUD/28.85 USD) each for transport to Santa Clara and R$30 ($12.75AUD/9.60 USD) each for transport to Corumba. In Campo Grande we stayed in a basic but nice hostel called Morena Hostel Hospedagem for R$30 ($12.75AUD/9.60 USD) each in a 4 bed female only dorm with private bathroom. This also included a decent breakfast. As we’ve said, other than the tour jumping point there isn't much to do in Campo Grande so we decided to set out on an urban safari through the city to the local park. It was a 5 km walk from our hostel but we had all day. This was a fairly intense walk in the heat but we made it to the park, only to find that it was just like every other city park you can go to...or so we thought. Turned out all you needed to do was look a little deeper. They weren't just more trees, they were mango trees, laden with mangoes and the birds were a lot more exotic than were used to. While trying to get a mango from one of the trees I spotted a brown lump by the water, in the distance. Low and behold there were a group of 8 capybaras (the worlds largest rodent) just sitting under a cluster of trees in the shade. We approached them very carefully and it turns out at least this group were pretty relaxed. We were able to get up very close without stressing them out and they happily lazed around posing for pictures. As these were on my wildlife bucket list I was over the moon. So, needless to say, it was not a wasted trip to either the park or Campo Grande! Arriving in Bonito we discovered that the hostel we had decided on was on the other side of town from the bus station and there were very limited options in the way of transport. So schelping through the heat we headed across town. Now the hostel we stayed in Che Lagato (R$45.30/19 AUD/14.55USDpp) was a very nice hostel but the deal we thought we were getting through booking.com turned out not to be such a good deal. Breakfast was not included (although it was very good) and cost an extra R$10pp ($4.20 AUD/$3.20) and the staff were friendly but not particularly helpful. They did have a great happy hour though which gave you 2 caipirinhas for the price of 1 costing R$8 ($3.35 AUD/2.55 USD). Next door to the hostel is a tour agency that we booked the Aquario Natural tour with. This trip is a half-day snorkeling trip through the jungle. It is expensive for backpackers but worth every cent. You walk along a forest path to a clear water spring and get into the river. From here you float 800m down stream seeing some spectacular fish and riverscapes also included is your wetsuits and gear and the trip is topped off by a fun zip line jump into the river. We had a fantastic guide who was very knowledgeable and we even spotted monkeys and a caiman on site. At this particular location there is a resident antar who comes and goes as he pleases and is extremely friendly…if he's home. The trips that you book don't include transport so it's worth noting that this will have to be booked separately and if there is no room on the shared vans you need to book a taxi. We paid R$231($98 AUD/74 USD) each for the trip and then an extra R$40 ($17 AUD/12.80 USD) for the shared minivan each. All the tour companies have to work within the regulated prices set by those who own the land the tours are on. These prices are set annually and it means that it is irrelevant which tour company you choose, as they are all the same trips and prices. The only thing that might change is tour companies buy slots on each tour. Just because one is sold out on the day you want to go does not mean that they all will be. After Bonito it was time for us to head on to the Pantanals. This trip is advertised as a 3-day trip but was really more of a 1.5-day once you factor in travel time from Bonito. We were picked up from our hostel and dropped of at the pickup point. From here Santa Clara collected us in their pickup truck with bench seats on the trailer giving you a great view of the wildlife as you head into the Pantanals. We managed to see caiman (small crocodiles), capybara and plenty of bird life on our trip to the Santa Clara grounds. From here we were dropped off and left to our own devices until dinner time. The food was great and there were even some resident macaws, parrots and wild pigs that joined us while we chilled out in hammocks. The next morning we were up early ready for our safari and trek. This was actually just a trip down the same road in the same pickup truck we'd been in the day before and the noise of the truck did scare away a lot of the animals. This being said we did manage to spot toucans (among countless other birds), capybara and a few more wild pigs. On the trek we were mildly more successful spotting caiman, macaws, howler monkeys and another toucan. Then it was back into the truck and back to Santa Clara. The afternoon activity was a 3 hour boat trip which provided ample bird spotting, more capybara (this time swimming by the boat), plenty of caiman and on the way back we saw jaguar tracks that our guide followed, but unfortunately we had come along too late. The evening activity was a night safari back on the truck. Now wildlife is never guaranteed, but this did seem pointless as the truck was loud enough to scare off any animals, particularly those that only come out at night. We saw a fox and a bush deer but the highlight was the baby armadillo that our guides friend found before we had even left Santa Clara's grounds. We arrived back exhausted and hungry so dinner was a welcome sight. On the morning we were due to leave the final activity was piranha fishing which was a lot of fun but a very short trip. I (Riv) caught the fish of the day, which secretly made my inner feminist very proud. After our final lunch (for which we ate our catches) it was time to get back on the road to Corumba so that we could make the border crossing into Bolivia. The system for this process is that the pickup truck takes you back to the main road where you wait for the local bus. We had a good laugh about being stranded in the middle of nowhere while being eaten alive by mosquitoes and then in true backpacker style the bus arrived and we were on our way. On arrival at the bus station in Corumba we were approached by a strange Greek man smelling slightly of urine who offered to show us his guesthouse. Not entirely convinced we were making the right decision but choosing to be trusting, we followed him into the streets of Corumba making sure we kept our wits about us. The guesthouse (Bed and Breakfast 4 Cantos) we were shown was cheap and functional. There was decent internet, and a basic breakfast included for only R$35 each…done! We woke up early to head to yet another country (our 3rd in 2 weeks which is even excessive by our standards). The local bus station where we were to catch the bus was only 6 blocks away. The bus cost R$3.25 ($1.60 AUD/1.20 USD) each and we needed to catch the bus stating ‘Frontera’ on the front (the locals are very friendly and willing to point you in the right direction). It dropped us right outside the Brazilian border checkpoint where we needed to exit Brazil. Be warned this queue moves ridiculously slowly and it took us 2 1/2 hours to exit Brazil. You need to get in the line that is closest to where the bus drops you off. If you are confused there is a Spanish/Portuguese speaking tourist information centre at the checkpoint. After being processed you walk through to Bolivia over the bridge. The customs office is on the left hand side. This was a very quick process and only took us 10 minutes. At this checkpoint there are ATMs and money-changers that give really good rates for American dollars and Reals. There are now changers at the bus station but none at the train station so make sure you get enough money to get you through to your next destination. There are also taxis waiting to take you to the Quijarro bus/train stations, which should cost around 10 bolivianos ($1.90 AUD/1.45 USD). Overall we absolutely loved Brazil. Brazilians were some of the friendliest and most helpful people we had come across and really made us enjoy our time there. We left wishing that we had been able to explore more, however due to the expense it was time to move into the cheaper countries in South America. Now with that we will give you the breakdown of budget busting Brazil. Budget Time $$$ What it actually cost: 10 days = $1304.71 AUD Entertainment: $824.37 Accomodation: $206.73 Food: $123.46 Transport: $116.58 Drinks: $28.54 Souvenirs: $4.20 Miscellaneous: $0.84 That means we spent an average of $65.25 each a day. Brazil and budget are not two words that really go together comfortably. It is a country that is as expensive than any Western European country or most places in North America. For this reason, as a traveller you simply have to make the concession that if you are going to go, you are going to spend a lot of money, it's that simple. Prior to going I did my usual research and calculations and figured out that we could managed on $50AUD/day. Once we were actually on the ground in Brazil Riv and I quickly realised that this was a manageable budget if all we did was stay in the cheapest hostel in every location, participated in free activities and ate from the supermarket or at fast food restaurants! That is not a particularly enjoyable way to travel around a country like Brazil which has so much to offer. Brazil became our budget buster and redistribution of previous savings location. We couldn't visit Brazil and simply turn it into a game of 'how can we save money?'. There are ways to make it a little cheaper but basically you just have to accept that a visit to Brazil will involve a big dent in funds. When we were in Foz and Campo Grande we found some good buffet restaurants to eat in for lunch. These weren't too expensive (around R$15/pp) for all-you-can-eat, they have a good selection of homemade Brazilian dishes, like feijoada and can function as your only big meal of a day to save a few $s. While in Bonito we stayed at a place outside of the centre which meant we got something a lot nicer for a lot less than we would have in town. Finally, we shopped around carefully for all the tours that we did. Many of the popular attractions in Brazil (like the Pantanals) have a lot of competition and the standards are all pretty high. So, do your research, ask questions and haggle...the only thing they can do is refuse to lower their prices and if they don't at least you tried! Most importantly though, just remember, Brazil has so much to offer and sometimes when you travel it's more important to have the experience than to save the money! Even I had to conceded and accept that the budget had to be of secondary importance in Brazil, there was too much amazing stuff that would be missed otherwise! LGBT: Brazil was strikingly the most gay-friendly country we have been to so far in South America. In all the places we went we saw openly gay couples both male and female, including small places like Bonito. Brazil has marriage equality and we found Brazilians very welcoming and friendly towards Dani and me.
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